Nihao from Taipei!

The Lanyang Museum

Sunday May 12, 2024. Mothers’ Day!

We are in Taipei again. We flew from Wellington to Auckland in the morning; one of our sons drove us to the airport. The flight was very smooth, and for once we were sitting at the front of the plane, so I had a marvelous view too.  At Auckland, we walked to the Novotel Hotel – it does take about 10 minutes, but it was fine there too and not too cold.  Thankfully, this time the Novotel had a booking for us, and we could go to our room, although there was some drama over access cards.

Then we walked around the hotel to the transport centre to catch the Sky Bus into the city. This was only $12.50 each for us, although the bus was very full and we had to sit upstairs. The bus went to the Sky City hotel, and from there we walked to the Auckland Art Gallery.  We had met a lovely American woman from Chicago, who talked to us while we waited for the bus.

At the Art Gallery we had lunch – I had a salmon bagel while JD had a hamburger and chips, most of which he did not eat. Then we went to see the Robertson Gift, a wonderful collection of paintings which had been gifted to the Art Gallery by a wealthy New York donor and his wife. The paintings were his “children”. They were mostly modern-ish paintings, with a wonderful one by Monet, a Salvador Dali, some by Picasso and Braque, and several sculptures. There was even a painting by New Zealand’s Frances Hodgkins, although I did not think it was one of her best.

After this we got a taxi back to our hotel, where we ate dinner (fish and pasta), and went to bed. I was afraid we would not wake early enough for our 7:40 am check in, but JD woke at 5 am, although he did not have his shower until 7:30 am. I wished I had had breakfast at the hotel!

We rolled across to the International Airport, as you do, where we had to wait at a counter to get boarding passes printed. We got severely reprimanded for not queueing, although there was no queue when we started.

Eventually we got through security to have something to eat at Aroha Café. Sadly, this was not the adequate experience we had remembered from January 2023, when we had used it on our way to Adelaide.  The toast was tough, the coffee only just drinkable. There wasn’t much time left, so we made our way to Gate 18 – the furthest one!  Thankfully there were several restrooms along the way, and several “walk-alators”.

We flew Premium Economy to Taipei. We were seated at the front of the cabin, but although it was nice to have plenty of room, I could not quite reach the screen without undoing my seat belt, and when it was on, I couldn’t quite read what it said.  Also, the foot rest didn’t work quite right for me, in that it wasn’t quite comfortable.  Still, one shouldn’t complain. The service was very good.

Lunch was quite nice – a spicy pork dish with rice and vegetables, and an entrée with whipped ricotta (?), manuka-smoked olives, and some vegetable shavings that looked like onion but did not taste like onion. The hot bread was delicious. Dessert was chocolate miso ice cream in a little cardboard tub; that, too was delicious but we were both too full to eat more than a few mouthfuls. Every menu item both on board here and at the Novotel had something smoked and something whipped, all carefully translated into Māori, although this was by no means traditional Māori food.

It seemed a very long flight. I read my guide book about Taiwan – but found it disappointing, compared to the books I had borrowed from the library last year, being unable to find any in the shops to buy.  I also watched the movie “Napoleon”, and although I thought it was quite good (spoiler alert: very gory beginning), I could see why the critics panned it. But Joaquin Pheonix was surprisingly good as Napolean, and Vanessa Kirby was amazing as his wife Josephine.  But a historical biopic it was not. The clothes they wore were amazing, though! There were some battle scenes, particularly the battle of Waterloo, where Napoleon was defeated. Dinner was a kahawai “rillette” with mandarin segments, and a chicken dish with potatoes and vegetables. Dessert was a delicious pear and ginger cheesecake.

Eventually the plane began its descent, and I couldn’t see any land for ages, and then I could.  When we came last year, we did not have window seats in business class, and it was two hours later (the plane was late taking off), but this time we landed in daylight. We flew over flat land with lots of ponds, lots of green grass, and rather unattractive beaches.

We got through immigration, and then got our checked baggage surprisingly quickly. Then we went through to the Main Hall, and there was our eldest son! We took a taxi into the city to our hotel, and everything looked surprisingly familiar. Then we checked in at our hotel. We are on the 10th floor again, this time in room 1001. It is very similar to last time, although they don’t give out the bottled water each day or fresh fruit each week any more. My mobile phone picked up the new network right away. There is a fan in the bathroom, which comes on when you turn on the light. The toilet was more modern and less precarious!

JD went with our son to his nearby apartment to see our grandchildren; I would love to have gone too, but I was really very tired by this time. Thankfully JD bought some fruit and drinks, as it felt rather strange not to have anything to eat or drink. Actually there is a water dispenser on our floor, but no complimentary fruit as there was last time we were here.

I went off to sleep, but woke feeling greatly refreshed, to find it was just sometime after midnight!  I did go back to sleep for a few hours, but we were both ready for breakfast when it opened at 7 am.

Breakfast was fine; we knew the drill, and I stuck to fruit (watermelon, orange segments and apple segments), fruit drink, coffee, and toast (white bread). JD has corn flakes: in a nod to Western civilization, there are containers of what I suppose are fruit loops, chocolate rice bubbles, and corn flakes. For spreads, there is butter, a red jelly-like jam, and sweetened smooth sweetened peanut butter. I rather like it now! Other than that there is the usual array of things we would tend to eat for lunch or dinner:  salads, noodles, rice and vegetable dishes. The next day there was something called “steamed egg”, which looked like a cross between baked egg custard and scrambled eggs, but it was very pale. It feels as though we are “home” again, although it’s so very different here.

On Friday morning I went for a walk in Da’an Park. There were many people there, some of them wearing sunhats. There were two untethered dogs, which amazed me. They weren’t aggressive. I passed two groups doing Tai chi – they’re so graceful. I walked a long way, but somehow did not encounter the lily pond.  There are several entrances: there was a large sculpture at the one I had entered, so I knew I needed to find that again. But I did walk rather a long way! It was very hot – meanwhile in New Zealand it has been very cold, especially in the mornings.

Later in the morning we met our son and his wife, and went to “Amore Vegan” for lunch. This lovely restaurant took some finding: we were in the main railway station, but this seemed to be located in a department store.

What a lovely place to eat! I had spicy noodles with chilli, but it was delicious and not too spicy. To drink I had a drink that tasted of apple with oolong tea – not too sweet, and very refreshing. Most restaurants offer forks and spoons as well as chopsticks, which is most welcome. I endeavour to use chopsticks, but get very clumsy when I’m tired.

After this we went to a coffee bar, where they did not have oat milk lattes, but JD and I each had affogato.

Back at the hotel our son brought our grandchildren to visit, and we gave them their presents. These seemed to be well received!

JD and I had dinner at the hotel that evening – a combination meal, as we had had last year, although this time there was less food, thankfully. There was an entrée of very thinly sliced meat; a soup which tasted chicken-based but had lumps of tofu; and our favourite pork meatballs and delicious fried chicken with mushrooms, apple and peppers. There was rice, of course, and some delicious fruit to finish. Mastering the chopsticks was challenging, but there were wee china ladles which helped.

The next day was Saturday. Again I went for a walk in the morning, up Heping St this time, and found the designer clothing shop (closed), Mollies’ Used book store, and what I think was the entrance to the Tae Kwondo studio. Then I walked back to Da’an Park, and then to the hotel.

We met our son and his family for lunch. We went to one of the children’s favourite restaurants, which also had a bakery next door.  This was quite an experience. We were served Bali tea, rather than water, on arrival. On advice, JD and I shared an order of soba (buckwheat) noodles, with side dishes of soup, a dipping sauce with horseradish, some edamame beans, some sweet potato, and a salad of a green vegetable that I had not seen before. There were also vegetables in tempura batter, mock-chicken pieces with a dipping sauce (all delicious); and two bowls of ice cream for dessert. Oh, and I had a delicious drink of tea flavoured with orange. Here there were chopsticks (no spoons!); I did find it hard to navigate the noodles and the dipping sauce!

Afterwards we went to the bakery next door and bought some croissants for our evening meal, and the others had an ice cream – served in half a croissant! No cones or waffle cones here, and although the place was vegan, there was a delicious ginger flavoured wee biscuit in the shape of a bear.

Then JD and our son and grandson went in search of coffee, after JD laboriously bought some headphones for his mobile phone.  We found a café beside a children’s playground, so JD was deputed to play with his grandson while my eldest and I retreated into the air-con café to enjoy delicious coffee. I had a latté with oat milk and caramelized brown sugar on top – delicious! Since we were seated at the bar, we could watch the baristas at their very fine work of brewing great coffee. It reminded me of our tea tour last year. This café actually had containers to store one’s bags – very welcome.

We rescued JD and the little boy, and caught a taxi home to the hotel. There was a visitation later that evening, where we were given some wonderful paintings.  That evening JD and I did not go out for dinner. Instead we enjoyed our croissants, bananas, and chopped apple he had bought. So far, there is no pineapple available in the shops.

We are due to meet the family for lunch today, at another Herbivore restaurant that we went to last year.

So what are my impressions so far?  I saw three beggars on Friday. As mentioned, I saw two untethered dogs at the park, which was strange. I’ve seen more overweight people already this trip. And people perhaps seem a little more edgy? Still gracious and friendly, though.

It’s now Monday 13 May.

Yesterday we went to an Art Studio where our grandchildren are taking private art lessons. Their artwork is very impressive! 

Then we went to the lovely Herbivore in a high end department store, where we had been last year with our two sons from New Zealand and the UK.  It was lovely again: we ordered brussels sprouts again; I ordered a salad with pecans, roasted beetroot, quinoa and vegan ricotta cheese. JD ordered a mushroom and truffle risotto, which, thankfully, was much less “soupy” than New Zealand offerings.  There was a vegan duck platter, where you took a taco and wrapped it around the duck with seasonings and sides like grated carrot, lettuce and onion. Everything was delicious. I’m starting to believe that the “fake” meats (whatever they’re made of), are more delicious than their real counterparts! Here you could serve yourself, with spoons and forks provided and large paper napkins. There was a lovely container to place bags and belongings.  The children had pancakes – which looked very filling. I had been tempted to order them, but wisely thought better of it. To drink I had lemonade with red grapefruit juice; my son ordered it without sugar, but when requested sweetening they brought a tiny jug with sweet syrup, which I added to the drink. To be honest, it tasted much better with a little sweetening. JD also ordered a half bottle of a Côtes de Rhone white wine, which was poured into four large wine glasses. To our surprise, there was plenty.

Afterwards we shared a delicious cake my eldest son had brought.  We were celebrating my eldest granddaughter’s 12th birthday, and there were three candles: 5, 6 and 1!  We were also celebrating Mother’s Day and my granddaughter had had her birthday a few days earlier.  The cake was three layers, with a posy on top and a large maraschino cherry, a pineapple ring, and a piece of apricot. The cake, covered with some white creamy icing, had pieces of apricot throughout it, and an oolong tea-flavoured layer. My son cut it into 6 portions – they were quite large!

Afterwards we went to a store where JD bought our granddaughter’s birthday present: a bag and a t-shirt.  We were in a large shopping complex that I remembered from last year.

After this we took a taxi home; later on JD and I went to the Carrefour supermarket just up the road and bought more fruit, plain crackers and cheese slices as we had last year.  We also delivered a birthday card to the birthday girl – it’s her birthday today – and a little present I had brought from New Zealand at the last minute.

Later that evening JD went shopping again with his son and grandson, but it rained and he came back quite wet.  Today it is much cooler – a mere 23C, which, of course, would be a hot day in Wellington. I went for a walk after breakfast to Da’an Park, but there were far fewer people there, and the seats were wet.  It’s just drizzling now, but much cooler outside, and there is a breeze.

It’s now Tuesday 14 May.

Yesterday (Monday) I went for a walk in Da’an Park in the morning, but every seat was wet, and there weren’t many people there. It was much cooler – at least 5C cooler than the 31-32 C of the weekend. It also drizzled off and on.

We went to an older area of Taipei that had been settled by the Japanese; there were brick porticoes; it was quite charming, although it was cold and wet. Eventually we went into the restaurant where we were to have lunch.

This was different again. We had omelet on rice – all vegan, but the rice was tasty and delicious; and two noodle dishes, one looking as though it had egg yolk on top. We also had meat-like entrées. I had a pineapple drink.  For dessert we had what looked like a cross between panna cotta and crème caramel, although of course it was vegan. Afterwards we walked through past many stores, selling varieties of dried goods, many of them in sacks. 

We had coffee in a coffee bar which was up a steep staircase, but very nice when we got there.  JD and I had oat milk lattés with brown sugar, but it wasn’t caramelized like the day before.  JF had coffee made from Peruvian beans in a fine china teacup with saucer.

Afterwards I used the restroom: it was quite different!  There was a notice asking for toilet paper to be put in the toilet; but the handwashing equipment was quite basic, with nothing to dry one’s hands on. The bathtub, filled with pot plants, was lined with mosaic tiles! Then we caught a taxi home to our hotel. That night we feasted on crackers and cheese, bananas, and pineapple.

When I got back to the hotel there was news from New Zealand, specifically relating to our daughter and her proposed surgery which was to take place on Monday 20 May! I had given formal consent for this sixteen months ago – the dental surgeon had rung me when I was in Australia!  So it’s going to happen now? Her house manager had taken her to Hastings Hospital to the anaesthetists’s appointment that morning, but she would be unavailable on the following Monday, and the anaesthetist needed my consent.

Today (Tuesday) we were to accompany our grandson on a school trip – to a farm.  Quite a number of parents were going, so there wasn’t enough room for us on the bus that was taking the children, and another parent who spoke English was driving us in his car. We were to meet in the hotel lobby at 8 am.  I had set the alarm on my mobile phone for 6:30 am, intending to have a shower before breakfast at 7 am.  I duly did this, but there was a missed call from Hastings Hospital. Knowing that we didn’t have much time, we went down to breakfast, but alas many others had had the same idea, and there was a long queue! Then the dining room opened, and we were easily able to find a table.

After breakfast we went back up to our room where I again tried to ring Hastings Hospital to give consent for our daughter’s General Anesthetic.  I got through to reception, and then to anesthesiology, but my phone ran out of credit and my call was cut off. I had to fire up my computer to add more $$$ to my much diminished balance, and then I rang again. Unfortunately I got put on hold, and had to abandon the call again. Then someone called me back, but I got put on hold again, and again had to abandon the call.  By now we were late meeting our son and our driver in the hotel lobby. Consequently I had a rush to put on socks and trainers; JD forgot to bring a water bottle!  Fortunately I brought my raincoat and a cardigan, as this day only was unusually cold.  I was reminded of the situation when my five children were small, and I used to wonder which one needed me the most, when there were multiple needs. It wasn’t always the youngest!  But I did feel really inadequate. Thankfully there were a few days to elapse before the scheduled surgery.

We drove to the farm where the school visit was to occur. It took about an hour; we drove through a hot springs area, and then up into the hillside round some very winding roads. Eventually we reached the spot, but the children took quite a long time to arrive after we were there. It was quite cold, and there was nowhere to sit!

Eventually the children came, and we trudged through to the open classroom that would be our base. There were several long narrow tables with bench seats; there was a water container (thankfully JD had brought the wee bowls we had bought to use as drinking vessels); there were tubs for washing. There was also a ledge where everyone put their backpacks and bags.

On the way the growth was very lush: it was quite unlike a New Zealand farm. There were some beautiful flowers, and some geese, and some kind of bird sound.

There were other school classes at this farm, although we were separate from them. An instructor showed us how to decorate plain tote bags by making stencils of different leaves. Parents all joined in this activity, as did JD and I. We went outside to collect leaves; it was all amazingly well organized, with blank canvas tote bags, palettes of paint, brushes, and squares of paper to be used for pressing.  It was quite good fun. Afterwards we hung the bags to dry (there were pegs provided), and we all cleaned up.

We also saw some chooks on our way to collect the leaves.

I did use the rest room, which was probably the most basic I have encountered in Taiwan: most of the lavatories were squat type, but there was one western-style lavatory which flushed, although it was a very tiny space. Afterwards there was nowhere obvious to wash one’s hands, but there were large sinks with soap some way away.

Then we had lunch: our son had supplied bowls and cutlery; the farm supplied lunch. It was delicious: rice, ginger flavoured chicken, an egg mixture, and stir-fried cabbage, which the children had helped make. It tasted delicious.  After lunch the children went off and played; I stayed in the room with the tables and benches.  The paths had stones placed for walking on a rather muddy base; the stones were rather uneven so one had to watch where one walked.

Eventually it was time to pack up and return. I was very tired by this time, and really looking forward to having a cup of coffee somewhere local.

JD and I went to the Dancing Goat Café, but although the man in charge recognized JD, and welcomed him, he did not understand when I asked for “drip” (siphon) coffee, which I had so enjoyed last year with one of my sons when we were here. So I had a latté, but alas he didn’t have oat milk! Still, JD and I shared a waffle with maple syrup in a tiny jug, fruit, and ice cream. It was pretty good.

Then we went to the Carrefour supermarket and bought some more crackers and some more fruit and some teabags. For some reason the two teabags that were in our hotel room have not been replaced.  We couldn’t seem to buy a small packet!

It’s now Wednesday 15 May.

Last night we slept well. We went down to breakfast some time after 7:30 am; afterwards I tried again to ring Hastings Hospital. I got put through to anesthesiology, but their recorded phone message had four possible replies. Sadly none of them worked – it seemed to be on some kind of loop.  I sent our daughter’s house manager a text advising her that I was unable to access the hospital, and suggesting she communicate with me using JD’s mobile phone, which was on a different plan. My phone was very costly for overseas calls, although I had paid lots for overseas roaming. Then I was advised that Taiwan was withdrawing support for the 3G network, which I was apparently on.

We went for a long walk in Da’an Park. It was 29C today, but there was a nice breeze. We found the pond, and there were several school groups there, All the children (as yesterday) seemed incredibly well behaved and well cared for.  We spent some time at the park, and then walked up Heping St as far as the designer shop. This had just opened. JD liked a blouse there (not a garment I would normally have chosen), but I suggested we come back later as we were to meet our son in a few minutes. This was probably a fatal mistake, as we did not go back there!

Today we went to another restaurant for lunch, which was mostly vegan. This was a nice place to be, but I did not enjoy the food as much.  We ordered lots of appetisers; I ordered a fruit juice drink, and we shared two desserts which looked like mille feuille.

Afterwards we headed back to our hotel. JD wanted to have coffee at the Dancing Goat again. I had found my photo of the lovely drip coffee I had had a year ago.  So my eldest son ordered this, and it was complicated and took a long time.  There were two lots of coffee grounds that we sniffed; then eventually the coffee came, on a tray each: a cup of coffee; a glass of water; and a small tube-shaped container of coffee in a glass of iced water. We were also served some delicious small biscuits: two were like Anzac biscuits, and the other two like shortbread with fruit inside it.

In New York, the Trump case continues. It is absorbing viewing!  As Benjamin Wittes says, it’s the trial America deserves, and probably the only one they’re going to get before the presidential election in November. It is salacious and has had some shocking details; seeing American’s reactions to the sleaze has been interesting. Some of them are quite prudish.

Today Michael Cohen has been under cross examination, after testifying, unemotionally, yesterday,  A number of senior republicans, including the House Speaker, Mike Johnson, turned up in New York to support Trump, all wearing suits and long red ties, like Trump does. On MSNBC this lineup was being compared to Trump’s close interest in beauty pageants and swimsuits.

They are all supporting Trump, of course: they are in effect saying that morals don’t matter, and the justice system doesn’t matter; Stormy Daniels testified that Trump did not use a condom when he had sex with her. So what if she had become pregnant?  What’s more ironical is that Cohen is testifying that he lied for Trump; the trial is largely about Cohen’s misplaced loyalty to Trump; yet Trump’s supporters continue to support him, not seeing the Shakespearian/Greek Tragedy aspect of their support. Wittes even called Stormy Daniels his favourite person in the trial, comparing her to the fool in Shakespeare’s Tragedy of King Lear.

It’s now Friday morning here 17 May.

On Wednesday evening we went to a nearby café, Editors and Books Café I think it was called. It was like a bookshop with tables. The maître d’ spoke English. We each ordered a stewed beef dish with rice rather than bread, and Chinese plum juice to drink (cold, with ice).  It did have a strange sharp taste – a bit more vinegary than I would have preferred.  JD’s meal was delivered on a tray several minutes before mine. Eventually mine was delivered – a container of the stewed beef (with vegetables), a container of rice, a small container of fruit – apple and pineapple, and a small lidded jar with delicious lettuce salad with dressing, that JD said reminded him of prawn cocktail sauce! We were given spoons and forks to eat with. The meat was rather gristly, but we expect that here.  The meal was quite nice, but we both felt rather strange afterwards, as if it hadn’t quite worked.

On Thursday morning I went for a walk in the park again, where a retired Taiwanese professor of mathematics engaged me in conversation.  I was happy to brag that my son and daughter-in-law are both academics too, and JD (jnr)’s field is mathematics. This nice gentleman had taught in Brisbane for 3 years, but not been to New Zealand.

We met our eldest son and his wife for lunch: this time we went to a vegetarian restaurant, on the first floor, above a bakery. It was modern and very busy.  So again we had a range of delights to eat – appetizers, which we shared.  There included so-called “stinky” tofu (I tried it but I’m not a fan!); there was a vegetables dish with greens and mushrooms; but a really delicious dish was deep-fried pineapple on a salad with cashew nuts, sultanas, craisins and suchlike – JD really enjoyed this, as did I.  Then there was a dish like we’d had at Herbivore with heated tacos in a basket, a sauce to spread on them, and what looked like duck and some sliced cucumber. There were only chopsticks here, so it was a bit of a challenge to eat with them!  There were some sweet little biscuits covered with sesame seed at the end. I had a delicious drink – I think it was grapefruit and cherry.

Outside there were people begging – two women sitting on the pavement, and an older man with a begging bowl, who would chant and wait until you gave him some coins. So that was strange.  Things seem a little more edgy this year.

There was a subway entrance nearby, so we caught trains – two stops then one stop, to the Chiang Kai-Shek memorial. The trains are fast and very efficient. At the memorial it’s all very traditional Chinese-looking: there’s a great concert hall, a big plaza, a Freedom gate, and another gate.  We went into the concert hall, where there were two cafes, lots of books, and nice restrooms.  This was another restroom where you were required to put the toilet paper in the toilet!  JD and I had oat milk lattes; our son had coffee which came in a fine china cup with saucer. I looked at some of the books, which had English titles as well as Chinese.

Afterwards we caught a taxi back to our hotel. That evening we had dinner at the hotel. There are restaurants around, but the menus are in Chinese, with no English, so it’s very tricky to order. We ordered beer for JD, a fruit juice drink for me, fried chicken with apple and bell peppers, and JD ordered a pork dish, with came with bao buns. There was no rice, but we didn’t really need it, there was plenty to eat.

This morning we are to meet our son at 11 am. It is lovely to be here, but I wish that I weren’t so tired! Tomorrow there is a concert again, with our granddaughter singing in it.

I decided I would no longer try to ring Hastings Hospital; if the surgery were to be postponed, that would be fine with me.  Although it should not have been, it was difficult to get in touch.

It’s now Sunday 19 May 2024

Yesterday was my granddaughter’s concert.

Beforehand I went for a walk in Da’an Park, and walked back along a side street that I hadn’t covered before. Then JD and I went to Café Galette. We had brown sugar lattés, and shared a delicious cheesecake with blueberry topping. We bought a jigsaw puzzle for a grandson in Wellington; I would have loved to buy more, but we did not – the puzzles were quite expensive! And perhaps not so easy to transport back to New Zealand.

Before the concert we had lunch at a Stir Fry vegetarian restaurant. It was very busy, and very hot, however we had some nice food – fried rice, stir fried green vegetables, deep fried shrimp and pineapple (delicious!) and others. I had a bottled Kai Kombucha with passion fruit and mango flavour which was quite strong – I needed to water it down.

Then we walked to listen to the concert, which was in the same auditorium as last year.  The seats were very comfortable!  Different bands played mostly well-known music, like Handel’s Arrival of the Queen of Sheba and the theme from the television series Mission Impossible. Eventually the choir came on, and they sang nicely but the altos were rather loud.

Eventually the orchestra played, and the Maestro had some fun with them Their Phantom of the Opera was a huge hit.  The choir sang some items with the orchestra, and now they made a beautiful sound.  The concert was about two hours long. Afterwards we went back to the hotel.

After a rest we went down to one of the hotel restaurants for dinner. JD managed to order one order of pork meat balls, and two orders of rice. The pork meatballs were again delicious, and came with cabbage and very thin rice noodles. We each had a fruit drink. Afterwards we bought two desserts – lemon tart and tiramisu from the cabinet – the hotel packed them beautifully in a plastic container with forks and napkins, in one of their beautiful paper bags.

Last night (Saturday) there was some noise in our level of the hotel, but it stopped around midnight. Again I did not sleep very well – it seemed very hot. The air conditioner is set to 26C, and you can’t change it.

This morning we went to the local Presbyterian church. It was lovely, although of course we couldn’t understand the Taiwanese bits. But the singing was amazing – there was a choir, but we sang 4 hymns as well.

Afterwards we went to Herbivore again – this time to celebrate our grandson’s 7th birthday. His birthday is actually in July, but we’ll be gone by then (and it is likely to be even hotter). Herbivore was lovely, of course: I ordered felafel with hummus and Tzatziki and spiced turnip, sliced cucumber and pita bread. It was delicious!  I ended up eating too much, again. There was some beautiful designer clothing in stores nearby – very expensive!

Monday 20 May

On Monday morning I was awakened at 4 am by a call from New Zealand.  It was my daughter’s House Manager. I called her back on JD’s phone, and then the hospital called me on his phone – the dental surgeon, and the anaesthetist. So we had a nice chat and I gave consent and talked about previous surgeries. It was 8 am New Zealand time. It appeared that my daughter’s House Manager was actually with her for this. So I felt greatly relieved, that these competent caring specialists had actually spoken to me.

I couldn’t get back to sleep afterwards:  but no matter; when we were at breakfast, the dental surgeon called again to say that things had gone well, and to say what he had done.  So that was good to know. I went for another walk afterwards, and another lady rang me from Allan House, but I told her that the surgeon had called me already to update me.

Then we met our son and his wife and went to another restaurant for lunch, again where I’d been before! This one had bears on the walls; actually koala bears are very popular here. I can’t remember what I had to eat!

The next day was our tour to Yilan, with an early (for us) start.

Tuesday 21 May

Tuesday was a big day – we were booked on a tour to Yilan, which looked quite intense. We had to be at the Taipei Main Station at 8 am (actually 15 minutes early for 8 am start), and we were to be delivered back there by 5 pm.

In between was a museum visit, a Heritage Site visit, a visit to the Kavalan distillery, and a Hot Springs visit, and, presumably, lunch.

JD wanted the alarm on my phone set for 6:15 am, although we couldn’t have breakfast until 7 am. I did not sleep well, but I got up and showered. There was a severe rain warning for Yilan, so JD took his backpack containing my raincoat and his umbrella. It was going to be hot, however. I wore trainers and took sandals, just in case I should need them.

It was really frustrating getting away. I went into breakfast and got some fruit and orange drink, but JD said we didn’t have time for toast and coffee! Admittedly, there was a queue – for both – but I really wanted them! So we went out and asked hotel reception to order a taxi; they gave us a slip of paper with the taxi number; JD went off to use the bathroom, of course, but hotel reception ordered a different taxi – the first one was going the wrong way. So we got to the station: then to find the right gate!  Actually it was easy to find, and we found our guide, in his yellow vest.  I could have bought something to eat but it’s tricky with not knowing what things are. JD assured the guide that we’d had breakfast! 

Our travelling companions, two guys from Singapore, both called Sean, arrived, They both spoke English, one better than the other. Our guide had limited English, but JD was able to use Google Translate to figure out what was being said.

We climbed into the tour van, which had room for 4 passengers, and headed off. Once across the river and then out of Taipei there were the familiar steep hills and several tunnels, with a few settlements dotted here and there.  It was not raining, although the sky was overcast.

After about an hour we arrived at the famous Lanyang Museum, built to a strange architectural design.  This was very interesting.  There were many photo stops, where the guide took photos of the four of us, and sometimes of JD and myself. He said he’d been doing these tours for 15 years, which I rather doubted! He was Hakka Taiwanese, and looked a bit like New Zealand Māori.

The museum was extremely interesting. It was a natural history museum, with exhibitions of flora and fauna, and details of logging and local settlements in Yilan county. There were also exhibitions of dragon boats, which are sacred here, and water (sea) rites.  There were natural lakes, ponds and canals.

After this it was still before 12 noon, but we agreed to have lunch (thank goodness!) We drove for some time, and eventually stopped at a noodle restaurant.  The land here is flat, and there are few skyscrapers, and more individual houses or smaller housing blocks.  The ground is very lush and green.

Ordering lunch was complicated! I had a bowl of noodles with what looked like pork mince and half a hard-boiled egg, with some green vegetable. JD had noodles with beef, which was quite tender.  We bought a bottle of apple soda, which was nice to drink.  JD ordered some dumplings as well, but again I was reminded that I don’t really like dumplings.

Afterwards we drove to the Taipei Heritage Site – a lovely venue, which had shops, a food court, a concert hall, and of course rest rooms. We spent some time here.  First we had coffee – at Home Essence, which had been recommended by our son.  We had lattes, of course. It was good to have coffee at last.  Then I browsed the shops, and we bought a gift for another friend at a beautiful tea shop. Again, it was beautifully wrapped and packaged up.

More to come – next instalment! Slava Ukraini! Ngā mihi nui.

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